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  A little while ago I was surfing with a friend at our local break. We were a bit to the right of the main peak. Because there were about 30 other people over there. And after a while we noticed a funny thing. In about an hour and a half of being in the water, we’d seen a lot of waves being ridden at the main peak. But only by about five or six people. Out of about 30. It was the same few people getting the waves every time. So I couldn’t help but wonder, what’s everyone else doing?...
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